Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Lucerne and Engelberg, Switzerland: June 29-30, 2015 - Donna Ain't Shit

It has been brought to my attention that there was a problem with these posts from my Eurotrip being in the wrong order. I did some investigating on that problem this morning and I think I fixed it. At last the question asked in my very first post has been answered: yes, I can change the post time and date manually. How's that for closure. Didn't realize this blog was a single narrative, did you?

Before the trip started, Meagan and Josh both (independently) followed a girl on Instagram named Donna who, in addition to having something like 40,000 followers, had just been on our same trip with this travel company. The beautiful and artsy photos she took got them all the more excited for the trip. But the question they kept asking was: how did she get so many followers? Once the two of them were on the trip and posting photos of their own, it was obvious that just the shots of European locales weren't the secret ingredient. What made her so special? She wasn't doing anything more exciting or adventurous then we were. So now anytime the group took a cool photo or stumbled upon some interesting activity, we'd all agree: Donna ain't shit. Meagan even started using that as a hash tag.

Quick note for people that don't use Instagram: it's basically a Facebook for photos only; you can post, like pictures, and follow people so you get notified every time they post. Hashtags are a way of sorting photos: you can search for, say, #venice and find all the pictures with that tag. Okay, back to the story.

Two nights in Switzerland. We stayed in this picturesque little town nestled up in the mountains called Engelberg. "Picturesque" pretty much describes anywhere in Switzerland. Switzerland is a picturesque place.

As always, shots from the bus ride in:



The place we stayed is this nice little hotel geared toward the skiers that come in the winter, owned by this lovely couple, with a rustic wooden feel to it, that still uses metal keys for the rooms. My room was on the top floor, and the view from our balcony was exquisite:



The night was pretty uneventful; we'd arrived late because of our side trip in Verona, and the whole town all but shuts down at 10:00 PM due to noise ordinances that would render any clubbing or late night activities impractical. Most restaurants close, a couple bars stay quietly open until maybe midnight.

The place is so, so quiet at night. Peacefully so, though, not in a creepy way, although Sam, Adam, and I joked that this place seemed like it could be the setting of a Stephen King novel where the townsfolk murder an inquisitive outsider for being too nosy. We sat out on the deck of our hotel drinking our Italian wine and talking, and all of us had to whisper or else we would have disturbed the stillness. It was that quiet.

It was also expensive. Switzerland is so pricey it's impractical. The cheapest restaurant in town, a little diner attached to a sporting complex, serves a cheeseburger for 18 and a half francs, which is roughly equivalent if not a little under what it would cost in US dollars. Somehow I found a cold ham sandwich for 6 francs, and luckily, tap water was free. That's been one of the most annoying things about Europe overall, that water is generally not free, and often is just as expensive as soda or tea. Oh, and don't forget to specify: still water. Sparkling is the default. Why the hell would sparkling be the default when someone says "water" without any qualifiers? Come on, Europe.

The main event was our day trip into Lucerne the next day, which was really just a staging area for our trip up into the Swiss Alps. The Alps trip was one of the optional add-ons you could sign up for when registering for the trip, and back in May or April when I did that, I figured I'd refrain from all of those to save on cost. The Amsterdam bike tour was one of these. But when I found out almost everyone was doing it, I asked Georgios if it was possible to still add it on, and happily, it was.

We walked around Lucerne for about 15 minutes as a group, crossing the Kapelbrücke, or Chapel Bridge, which is like, totally super old. It also makes for nice photographs:



We then said goodbye to the three people who elected not to go into the Alps and boarded our boat across the lake:


The Switzerland stop of this trip was essentially a series of moments when we all thought we had at last reached the photo-op, only to find the next thing was yet more impressive and breathtaking. So crossing the lake, I took a few photos that I thought were pretty cool:




Until the boat docked and we boarded our train up the mountain:



Which was only impressive until we got off at our train stop on the mountain and could take in the scenery at our own pace:


Which paled in comparison to the view once we took an elevator up to the restaurant level:



Which was dwarfed by how it looked once we reached the peak at last:




Unreal. According to A Sign, we were over a mile up from sea level. These are the kinds of views you can only get in airplanes.

I saw a paraglider go by while I was taking that last photo. It soared around, slowly descending into the valley below. When we returned to our group, we learned that the person paragliding was Meagan.

No, she didn't bring her equipment with her just to do a quick jump. While the group had been standing around taking pictures, a guy had walked up to them, explained he took people paragliding, said he had had a last minute cancellation, and asked if anyone wanted to go. And Meagan said, "me!"

She handed off her stuff to the group, agreed on a meeting point, then took off. And supposedly, the paraglider guy recorded the whole thing on his Go Pro. Donna may have 40,000 followers, but she ain't never paraglided off the Swiss Alps casually at a moment's notice. Donna ain't shit.

While the rest of the group finished up our sightseeing at the top of the mountain and then headed back down (via train and cable car), Meagan made her way to the train station in the town where she had landed and made her way back to Lucerne to meet up with us. The cable car was okay, but crowded, so the view was a bit obscured. It was quicker than the train, though. Once we got to the bottom, we took the bus back to Lucerne and saw the lion statue, symbol of Lucerne:


It's weeping for the Swiss lost in the French Revolution. Sad, sad lion.

We walked back toward the bridge we had walked across that morning to find Meagan, then went to Casa Grande, the most touristy of tourist shops there is. It was PACKED. Three whole floors and I could barely move through. I loathe souvenir shops on a good day, so you can imagine how much I enjoyed this place. The second floor is where they sell and engrave authentic Swiss Army knives, which is what most people were intersted in. I didn't want one. I did, however, get a bar of Swiss chocolate. Dad, I don't think I can bring you any. It will melt before I even get on the plane. I got you something else, though, don't worry.

We then left to go to Bucherer, where they sell expensive diamonds and watches, including Rolex. It was a swanky place. I've used that word a lot on this trip, but there's really no better. Georgios told us that this store houses the world's largest diamond, so we went in to see it. Wasn't on the first floor, nor the second, and by the top floor we were getting a little confused. So we asked the sales woman where they had it. She didn't know what we were talking about, but she said she'd go get the biggest diamond they had in stock. She returned from the secret back room with two rings, one the largest diamond ring they had, which sold for roughly 66,000 francs, and a slightly smaller but apparently purer diamond ring, which would fetch a respectable 116,000 francs. She knew we were not in any shape to buy something like these, but just for kicks, she asked if we wanted to see he most expensive thing they had in stock. We said yes, of course. She left and returned with a second sales associate ("for security") and a sapphire ring, covered with tiny diamonds that sparkled like glitter. The price? 1.4 million francs, probably $1.5 million or thereabouts.

It was kind of neat to see a million and a half dollars just sitting on a counter. Don't get to do that every day. Donna ain't never done none of that. She ain't shit.

It's not about disparaging Donna, of course, or begrudging her her internet fame. Good for her, really. I think there's an inherent jealousy in celebrity, and we all enjoy one-upping the famous as much as we enjoy admiring them. The point is that everyone's experiences can matter. Just because people aren't listening doesn't mean you don't have something to say.

We were hot and tired by the time we left Lucerne to go back to Engelberg. That night was another low-key night, eating dinner and taking a short walk around this lovely mountain town. Had a quick beer at the hotel bar before showering and going to bed. The next morning was an early one. We've got a final busride to the train station in Basel, then we're catching the TGV, and heading north.

Monday, June 29, 2015

Verona, Italy: June 29, 2015 - You're Gonna Miss Me When I'm Gone

The sign of a good meal is that when the food comes, the conversation completely stops. This happened pretty much every time we ate while we were in Italy.

We're losing Julie, the employee of the tour company along to evaluate the trip, today. "Losing her" meaning she's staying in Switzerland when we go through. She's not dying. Don't worry. But it's still sad. We've all grown close on this trip and it'll feel just that much emptier for her absence.

It is interesting how that sort of thing always seems to happen on trips like this. You spend enough time with people, they start to feel like family. I've reached the point where real life seems like the strange thing. Constant travel is the new normal. I know I'm in for a hell of a case of travel withdrawal when it's all over.

Stopped in Verona on our way out of Italy. Verona, as you know, is the setting of Romeo and Juliet. Fun fact: Shakespeare never visited Verona. The Montagues and Capulets may have existed, but the love story is pure fiction. Nevertheless, Verona somehow has the balcony where Romeo wherefores Juliet in that famous scene:



And a statue of Juliet:



It is said that grabbing her boob brings good luck. Not even kidding about that.

We passed by their arena:



Which is now a theater. They're currently running a production of Aida. Which helped explain these things out front:



We spent the morning walking around and finding a place for lunch. I didn't take many pictures of the streets of Verona. I took a break from picture-taking. I'm getting picture fatigue. Just think of the streets of Venice a little wider and minus canals. Ta-da!

Here's a river, as consolation:



Got our lunch - the last meal in Italy! - and pressed on. Near the Swiss border, we passed a lake where George Clooney supposedly has a house:



More bus photos. Name of the game.

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Venice and Mestre, Italy: June 27-28, 2015 - Yes or Yes?

When we first met him at the airport, Georgios (our tour director) gave us a few instructions on getting to the hostel, then to make sure we got it, he asked "everyone understand what we are doing? Yes or...yes?" Throughout the trip he has continued to ask, especially when we give a sleepy, lackluster response to his inquiries, "Yes or yes?"

We're finally in Italy. There is a lot I am looking forward to on this trip, but I think from the beginning, the destination I've been most excited about is Venice. Which is as amazing as if not moreso than I expected. But let me go chronologically.

The landscape changed dramatically once we hit Italy on the drive in, or at least it seemed to. As always, I nap intermittently on these bus rides, so it may very well have been gradual. But suddenly, we were surrounded by impossible Middle-Earth-esque landscapes dappled with old world cottages and miles of vinyards:


Sorry for the bus pic. The best view was to the right.

For this visit, we're staying in Mestre and just went into Venice as a day trip. Also, we stayed in a hotel, not a hostel. That was a nice change. The accomodations have been getting steadily better throughout the trip. Haven't been six to a room since Amsterdam.

I didn't take any photos in Mestre, but I can still tell you what happened with my words. Once we got settled into our rooms, we first took a quick side trip to the grocery store to buy good Italian wine on the cheap, then went to dinner. We found a great Italian restaurant a short walk from the hotel and went ham ordering every Italian dish we'd been looking forward to since the trip began. They made their own mozzarella with buffalo's milk, which makes it softer than cow's milk. We also got a few bottles of their house wine. And gelato on the way back to the hotel. Welcome to Italy.

A bunch of people were going out that night to party in Mestre, but I just couldn't. We had such an early start scheduled the next morning, and I knew exactly how I'd feel throughout the next day in Venice if I didn't sleep. I didn't wanna miss Venice for the clubs.

The next morning we took the bus to the water taxi, which is necessary to get into Venice. First glimpse:


Sorry for the grainy boat window photo. Man, I am 0 for 2 so far this post.

Stepped off the taxi into another world:




Venice is impossible. I don't just mean that as in impossibly cool, I mean that physically it seems like it shouldn't be possible. It seems like a city on some far-off planet that has some kind of Star Wars technology holding it together. I've always been curious as to how it got the way it did, with its canals and seemingly foundationless buildings. My guess was that the city was built as a normal town, but erosion slowly filled the canals with water over centuries to give us what we have today. I suppose I could have Googled it but I knew I'd have a guide there to explain it to me, and now, dear reader, I will explain it to you.

Venice is a collection of 121 separate small islands which are now connected only by the bridges of the city. Apparently the ancient Venetians first came to the island fleeing barbarians and set themselves up on what was then marshland permeated by canals. They laid down wooden pillars as a foundation to build their city on, which remain there to this day, now petrified by the lack of exposure to air or, yes, even water. There is a bit of a problem, though, because (as a city built on marshland) Venice is slowly sinking into the ocean at a rate of about 4 inches per century. No one really knows what to do about that yet. Yikes.

So, yes, as you may have guessed the first thing we did was a guided tour. We started at Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark's Square.




St. Mark's Square is swanky. And expensive - this is the place where the cafes serve espresso for €10 and it gets worse from there. But you can sit outside and enjoy the view and weather and live music played by people in vests.


It is also the location of the Doge's Palace:


And St. Mark's Basilica, where the square gets its name:


Supposedly the Basillica houses the bones of St. Mark. I say supposedly only because I didn't see them myself, but hey, why would anyone lie about that, right?

Next we took a trip down some of the winding roads of Venice:




The tour guide took us to a small, silent back alley where this winding staircase was:


And a small cat in a nearby window!


After the tour was over, we went here:


The Murano Glass company, famous for their glass creations throughout the centuries. We saw one of the maestros turn this:


Into this:


In like, two minutes.

Georgios said he knew a great pasta place for lunch next, but it turned out to be closed on Sundays, so we fended for ourselves. Found a good place for pasta and pizza on our own. As you tend to do in Italy. As reparations, he bought us all gelato for dessert. As you tend to have in Italy.

And then next on our very full very busy day in Venice, we had, you guessed it, Gondola rides. As you tend to have in...well, only Venice.




They took us out into the grand canal:




That shot kind of reminds me of crossing the lake in Zork. All of about one person reading this will get that reference. Moving on...

Once the Gondola ride was over, we were set loose until the end of our stay. I stuck with the usual group for a bit of sight seeing, but once the activity turned to shopping, I turned away. I still wanted to see the inside of the Basilica, which we were unable to do that morning due to, you know, church. But in the afternoon it was open to tour. No photos, of course. But the inside walls were covered with that same dull gold at the outside facades, giving it a very dark, cavelike, medieval feel.

It also had a very tawdry feel. You don't get the sense that this is really a holy place. Two Euros to go up the stairs, three to see the "treasure room". More security guards than clergy. Museum to the side, gift shop in the front. Nah. Not for me.

After the Basilica, I tried to get lost in the winding, narrow streets of Venice, but it was actually harder than you might think. Any tiny, quiet alley I found lead to either a dead end or right back into the main thoroughfares. I did eventually find one or two areas that seemed totally off the beaten path:


But here's the thing: getting lost is difficult by design. If you keep going in any direction, you will eventually see a sign pointing you towards either St. Mark's Square or the Rialto bridge, from which you can easily find your way to a water taxi and off the island. And of course, there's only so much space before you hit water that would be impassible without a boat. Venice is a maze, but one with many right solutions.

Bonus pictures from Venice before we leave it, since it is so beautiful:







My initial impression of Venice was that I need to live there, now, and for the rest of my life. But I think I would get a little stir crazy eventually. I'd feel trapped, disconnected from the world. It can get a little Disney Worldish, a little divorced from reality. That's my impression, anyway, for what it's worth.

We met on the dock and took the water taxi back to the mainland, then back into Mestre and our hotel. Most people had signed up for an optional wine tasting that night, so that was next on our agenda. I am so glad I signed up for it. I hesitate to say it was the highlight of Italy or even that day, since it's hard to compete with Venice, but it was easily the best wine tasting I will ever have.

The bus took us out to this vinyard, Vignaluna, which is just like...one family and their fields. They took us into their house and the mother - the only one who spoke any English - explained some of their process of wine making. Then we were seated and served five different kinds of wine, as well as a meal throughout, each course being paired with a corresponding wine. THEN! The grandfather, an accomplished operatic baritone, sang a few songs for us a cappella while we ate. We clapped and cheered for each one. Then he asked if any of us had a song we could all sing. So everyone turned to Chelsey, who lead us all in singing the cups song from pitch perfect. You know the one: 

When I'm gone
When I'm gone
You're gonna miss me when I'm gone

That one.

He sang again, an aria from a Puccini opera I believe, but not one I knew, then handed it back to us. Robyn sang, then all of us began hitting the table in rhythm, chanting "Geor-gi-os! Geor-gi-os!" which quickly changed to: "yes or yes! Yes or yes!"

He was pretty much obligated to at that point. He sang something to us in Greek.

At the end of the dinner, they handed us little shot cups of espresso, then invited us to, of course, purchase any of the wines we had tasted. They were pretty cheap considering how good they are and how small an operation they are. I may or may not have gotten a bottle.

On the bus back to the hotel, Georgios asks, "did you enjoy the wine tasting? Yes or yes?"

No revelry that night. Everyone was still worn out from the night before. Another night, another morning, another continental breakfast, and we're on the road yet again. Georgios gets on the bus microphone and asks how we enjoyed Venice and Mestre. Everyone cheers. He then asks, "who knows where we're going next?!" People point to Josh, and Georgios gives him the mic.

"Oh y'all know I don't know."